It had to be done. In one corner of the shop was our
fresh 4.3L Chevy V-6 (see "The 3/4 350," Aug. '02), and
at the other end was Vortech's new centrifugal
supercharger system for carbs ("Vortech Blower for Carbs"
in the same issue). Bringing the scenario to its logical
conclusion, one would have to meet the other. The
Vortech system was designed for the small-block V-8, but
in our sick dreams, there was no reason it wouldn't bolt
right up to the sawed-off six. We couldn't stand it
until we proved ourselves right--so we did, and ended up
with 501 hp and 437 lb-ft in the process. We also got
greedy and managed to puke a head gasket at 12 pounds of
boost.
Let's review. The 90-degree, even-fire V-6 in
question shares much of its design with the small-block
V-8, which is why the blower bracket bolts to the head
and why the pulley setup works. Our lil' puppy is
0.060-over for 270ci with Speed Pro LW2256 forged
pistons for 9.1:1 compression, and for beef it's got
Milodon rod bolts, main studs, and a windage tray. The
ported stock heads use Milodon 2.02/1.60 valves bumped
by Comp Cams' biggest V-6 hydraulic roller, a 280HR with
224/224 duration at 0.050, plus Comp Pro Magnum 1.6:1
roller rockers for 0.560 lift. The manifold is an
Edelbrock Performer, and in naturally aspirated trim we
made 301 hp at 5,500 rpm and 316 lb-ft at 4,400 with a
650-cfm Mighty Demon carb. That's through dinky,
15/8-inch-tube Hooker S-10 headers.
01. To make the V-8 Vortech supercharger kit fit
the 4.3L V-6, all we had to do was whack the
inlet elbow shorter by about 11/4 inches to make
up for the lack of engine length thanks to the
two missing cylinders. Other than that, the
supercharger outlet can be clocked to meet up
with the inlet elbow to adjust for varied
manifold heights.
Bench racing ensues. When we tested the Vortech
S-Trim setup on our HT383 crate engine, power jumped
from 476 naturally aspirated to 675 on 8 pounds of boost
and 91-octane 76 Performance Products pump gas. Applying
the same math--a 42 percent increase, or 1.76 hp per
cubic inch--it looked like the 270ci wee 6 would make
something like 425-475 hp. But it seemed like 500 hp was
the magic number, and we were willing to see what it
would take to get there.
We bolted the Vortech blower to our Vortec engine and
added Electomotive's HPX direct ignition system because
a distributor would not clear the carb enclosure.
Everything else was exactly as it had been on the 383
V-8, including the 6-inch crank pulley and 2.95-inch
blower pulley; this combo made a bit over 8 psi at 6,000
rpm on the V-8, so we anticipated much more on the V-6
with 112 fewer cubes. We even used the 383's 750-cfm
Mighty Demon carb with 88/97 jetting and the secondary
high-speed air bleeds cut down from 0.040-inch to 0.028.
Remember that the pressurized carb box requires a
boost-referenced fuel system so that fuel pressure
increases in direct proportion to boost. We fooled with
the V-6 timing and discovered that it liked 32 degrees
total under boost on 76 Performance Products 100-octane
pump gas. Then we whacked it good, and much to our
delight, the little sucker made 475 hp at 5,800 rpm with
a peak boost pressure of 9 psi.
As we noted with the Vortech on the HT383 engine, the
rpm at peak horsepower and torque increased with the
blower's ability to continue to deliver airflow as rpm
climbed. In fact, the V-6 kept making more power the
higher we revved it. It was a rare circumstance where
the hydraulic lifters didn't float around 6,200 rpm, and
the blower kept making boost until, on one glorious
pull, the V-6 made 501 hp at 6,200 rpm and 439 lb-ft at
4,800. Then we tried another at 6,400 rpm and gacked the
head gasket. You can't really blame it: We were cramming
12 psi into the poor engine and asking it to deliver a
power increase of 70 percent over the baseline. That's
about when stuff breaks.
02. There was no way this setup was going to work
with a conventional distributor because the carb
enclosure is almost as long as the V-6 valve covers,
making it too long for a distributor to fit. We went
with Electromotive HPX direct ignition, and this plug is
needed for the distributor hole to prevent an internal
oil leak at the lifter gallery.
We'd never had firsthand experience with the
Electromotive HPX direct ignition, but we found it
almost easier to use than a distributor. Shown here from
left to right are the Crank Trigger Simulator, to mimic
a signal and allow you check the spark or adjust timing
without the engine running; a Remote Timing Control for
on-dash adjustment of plus or minus 7 degrees of timing;
the multiple coil pack, this one with three coils for a
six-cylinder; the trigger wheel; the crank trigger
sensor and two optional mounting brackets for small
Chevys; the distributor plug; and finally, a MAP sensor
that can be used to retard timing as the blower comes
into boost for perfect streetability and mileage
04. Setting up the HPX is as simple as
this: Just align the crank sensor with
the trailing edge of the 11th tooth
after the gap in the trigger wheel. That
will provide 0 degrees of timing under
400 rpm (during cranking), or you can
move to the 13th tooth for as much as 12
degrees of timing during cranking. We
had to do that to avoid some backfiring
through the exhaust because the coil
packs fire companion cylinders
simultaneously (power stroke on one
cylinder, exhaust stroke on the other).
Here are the adjustment dials on the HPX. Once the
crank trigger is set and the engine runs, you set the
Initial knob to 0 and check the timing. Ours was 12
degrees--therefore, all the remaining timing numbers on
the dials must be considered cumulative. For example,
the Initial knob was set to 3 degrees to achieve 15
degrees initial timing (12 plus 3), and the Total knob
was set to 20 degrees for 32 degrees of total timing (12
plus 20). It's all very easy once you mess with it. The
HPX also has a built-in rev limiter and a timing retard
that can be triggered by rpm or with an external switch
(for nitrous or boost, for example). We used Performance
Distributors Live Wires plug wires.
One solution would be to add copper head gaskets and
O-ring wire (SCE Gaskets makes 'em for 4.3Ls) and keep
throttling, but it would be more prudent to fling a
bigger blower pulley on there to calm down the boost,
then be happy making a stone-reliable 450-475 hp all day
long on 91 octane. Put that in your S-10 and smoke it.
The Shriek of Power
RPM
HP
TORQUE
3,500
245.2
367.9
3,600
253.7
370.1
3,700
264.2
375.0
3,800
275.0
380.0
3,900
287.4
387.1
4,000
299.3
393.0
4,100
311.2
398.6
4,200
321.8
402.5
4,300
331.4
404.8
4,400
340.7
406.7
4,500
349.5
407.9
4,600
362.1
413.4
4,700
371.4
415.1
4,800
380.8
416.7
4,900
391.5
419.6
5,000
401.6
421.9
5,100
414.9
427.3
5,200
424.3
428.5
5,300
434.8
430.9
5,400
445.4
433.2
5,500
454.8
434.3
5,600
461.5
432.9
5,700
467.4
430.7
5,800
475.1
430.2
5,900
480.6
427.8
6,000
488.2
427.4
6,100
495.9
426.9
6,200
501.4
427.4
Something We Learned
We really wanted to step on the V-6, so we worked
with the Comp Cams team at 800/CAM-HELP to design a
custom solid-roller cam based on the flow numbers for
the cylinder heads and the knowledge that we wanted
serious rpm and big boost. We installed the cam and got
the engine running only to discover a huge loss of oil
pressure. It turns out that the lifter gallery on theV-6
block is drilled much lower than on a V-8, and when the
solid roller lifters were installed, they allowed oil to
escape when each lifter was pushed all the way up at max
lift. The hydraulic rollers have a deeper skirt and do
not pose this problem. So we were unable to use our
trick custom cam. We later found that the GM Performance
Products race blocks have priority-main, V-8-style
oiling that's totally different than the production V-6
blocks, and only those race blocks can accommodate solid
roller cams. Dang.