moving forward on the project!
last of the special tools arrived!
i used a jaw puller with the flat jaws to remove the accy drive pulley with a
1/4 to 3/8 drive adaptor to protect the crank shaft. a bit fiddley but it worked
perfect!
this tool is a must have for the seals removals on the rav4!! Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller
super slick tool!
i turned around the hook part to fit better and left a bit loose for a perfect
pivot.
and a tip: move the hook strait out to hinge in rotate at 7:00 on the shaft seal
inside for a perfect extraction
then go 90 deg with the hook and make the lever part fit and pry right out!
super slick for sure
yea i cheated and used Free All Rust Eater Deep Penetrating Oil, 11
oz Aerosol
that super slick stuff sure helps when you go to slide the new seal on the
shaft.
i also used a bit of pvc tube coupler fitting to use as a seal install tool.
just push in to place!
the service manual says to use engine oil...
i removed the oil pump cover so i can do that seal next.
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rolling along!
oil pump was todays thing.
yea use brake clean to clean or wash down the whole front of the engine first.
10mm heads on the bolts of just the oil pump front.
yea mine was leaking a bit.
nice wet spot under it.
i used the old broken belt to hold the pulley so i could impact off the nut for
the pulley
standard right hand threads so lefty loosy righty tighty... LOL!
the old shaft seal was stuck in there good.
replace seal with plastic pvc fitting to drive seat in place.
lube the inner seal with engine oil and slide shaft in place.
use the old belt to grip so you can torque the nut for the belt drive to spec.
see pix (i will post that later)
next:
on the engine block front face.
wash down with good green can brake clean
the block face where the oil pump sites care full not to blow junk in to the
passages.
let dry then dab
a bit of gear oil rtv in the corners to hold the shaped oring seal make sure to
test fit first!
there is only one way that is right for the fit! Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker, 3 oz.
the rtv helps hold the oring in place.
turn the oil pump shaft to align the gear
make sure it is seated by hand and all the way home and spins free before
starting any bolts.
see the pix for the long short bolt placement (pix to come)
you can use the oil pump drive nut to spin the oil pump with a cordless drill
and socket adaptor to prime the oil system.
more on that later.
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more done
couple of more sessions
cam seal is on, i marked the head dot with bright orange neon paint!
lol it shows up nice with led lights!
tricky with a mirror to see at best.
i made another set of marks in white so i can see the cam time easy.
and made easy to see paint marks for under on the crank drive as well.
i will post pix later.
yea a bit of machine work on the crank...
darn drive parts were not fitting right.
i had a heck of a time getting them off.
the crank was damaged when it was rebuild at 5 k miles
way before my time...
or it was messed up at the dealer ship at 60k miles when the belt was last
done...
it looks an fits perfect now.
i found an after market spacer at true value.
and a bit of trim seal for the time covers.
i will post all of those numbers later.
and location as right (DS) frost plug facing the engine under the exhaust
manifold heat shield
and yes you need to trim the heat shield to clear the power cord
(pix on the way)
and make a Y cord for both the block heater and battery charger as a one cord
out the front grill. click here i like this battery charger SOLAR
1002 1.5 Amp 12V Automatic Onboard Battery Charger they make a car battery
last up to 10 years no kidding.
still soaking the junk with diesel for a wash down on the front of the car or
left side of the engine. diesel works real good as a pre soak a few weeks in
advance. click here i like this sprayer
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yup she is running now.
more pix and full tools lists on the way.
waiting for a rain day so i can get all of the pix edited.
i think i took around 900 + pix lol!
making doc's of everything in the build.