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What are good ways to increase stock engine performance?

(check yourself for smog legality)

  • For the 2.3l L4:

     

    • IECO Dual Weber manifold (IECO is no longer in business)
    • IECO Valves--actually modified 305 valves--valves from a 173 V6 might be better
    • Hedman Headers
    • Offenhauser aluminum intake
    • Crane and Crower cams
    • Headers by Ed
    • Edelbrock intake with Holley carb

     

    Kevin (SoloII_74) adds: "[The intake] could be duplicated without a whole lot of trouble, since it is just sheet metal. You should be able to go faster by increasing your compression (by milling the head & block, or custom pistons) to about 9-9.5:1 (something I can't do), changing the cam (I could not because of the rules), adding a used 4 bbl intake, or fabricating a dual weber intake, and getting a header from Ed (expensive, but worth it). With a little work, you should be able to make it to around 200 hp.

    Unfortunately, the 4bbl intakes are hard to come by, and cams are getting rarer too. My '74 only weighs in at 2200 lbs. with me in the car, and your '77 wagon most likely weighs quite a bit more than that, so your 1/4 mile times would tend to be slower than that, unless you can get the weight down."

    Tom (tbecker_525) says: "The Crower cam I have is Part #07356, Grind No. 286-F, "COMPU-PRO". I have the spec sheet.
    Intake: Duration - 286 degrees, lift 477, clearance hot 022
    Exhaust: Duration 294 degrees, lift 490, clearance hot 024
    At .050" tappet lift - Intake opens 16 BTDC, closes 48ABDC; Exhaust opens 60 BBDC, closes 12 ATDC
    Lobe seperation - 110 degrees
    Duration at .050"
    Intake 224 degrees, lift .477
    Exhaust 253 degrees, lift .490
     

    Best I can tell it's rather radical... I'm still looking to see the year of manufacture to determine whether it's hydraulic or not."

    Randy (monzamiler) adds:
    "Jeff, The last time I needed bigger valves for a Vega engine I got mine from Donovan Engineering in CA. They cost $35.00 ea. and were well worth the money. I ordered mine with cut down stems on the intake. Yes you can cut down a V-8 valve but you will need to use a lash cap. The only lash caps I found only left .002 side clearance which I thought was a little to close to the lifter."

    jay27_85304 writes:
    "My 140 we built for a 3/8 mile dirt track includes Buick V6 pistons, Ford small block valves, Lunati cam, Quarter Master 12lbs clutch, Isky valve springs, and some other little tricks. The combination yields a dyno  150hp at 7,000rpm!. And they all told me it would never work. They're still scratching their heads."

    About the clutch, he adds:
    "The clutch is a 2-disk self contained assy. It is designed for a V8, but will bolt directly to the back of your crank. You run a flex plate in place of your fly wheel. The assy is 7-1/4" dia. Its not much for taking off, but frees up big top end."


rad

Install a 4 core radiator or have the original radiator re-cored. For a drop in replacement, Griffin makes 6-577AV-BAX (with trans cooler) and 6-577AV-XXX (without transcooler). These cost around $500. For a cheaper "generic" radiator, try Griffin part #55241 or #25241 but be prepared to do some work to make it fit

the Griffin # 25241. This rad has the following specs:

  • 27 1/2" wide
  • 15 1/2" tall
  • 3" thick tanks
  • 2 1/4" thick core
  • 23" wide core
  • 2 rows 1"
  • Griffin # 55241 same as above except for two 1 1/2" tubes.
  • Griffin # 25241 is $181.95 and Griffin # 55241 is $281.95.

 

These rads have the lower outlet angled up on the passenger side. You need to make some room on the bottom at each side for the tanks. The rad sits right on the lower part of the stock rad cradle. I have this rad and a long water pump and still have room for a good fan."


turbo 350 ratio

  • Three speed Turbo-Hydro matic automatic optional on all
    Gear ratios: 1)2.52:1 2)1.52:1 3)1.00:1 R)1.94:1
  •  can I improve my automatic transmission?

    Install a shift kit, use hi-per fluid, higher stall converter for drag racing, add an aftermarket overdrive gear (turn 3 speeds into 6!), aftermarket shifter, etc.


What rearend gear ratios were sold in the H-bodies?

The gear ratios listed are for 1976 (Vega) and 1978 (Monza). The ratios change year to year even for the same transmission/engine combination. You can find complete data in the Standard Catalog of American Cars. Or, just check your rear (see question 3.6).

  • Vega
    2.92:1 with three or four-speed manual
    2.93:1 with five-speed manual
    2.92:1 or 3.42:1 with automatic
    4.10:1 in Cosworth
     
  • Monza
    2.73:1 L4 with three- or four-speed manual or automatic
    3.23:1 L4 with five-speed manual
    2.56:1 V6 with three- or four-speed manual
    2.73:1 V6 with five-speed manual or automatic
    3.08:1 V8 with four-speed manual
    2.29:1 V8 with automatic
     

 

3.6 How do I find out the ratio of a rearend?

If you have your build sheet, look for a "G" option code and compare it to the option codes list--this will tell you what ratio is supposed to be in the car.

John B (vegadad) has provided information about identifying a rear end here.

To get a good guess, you can jack up the rear of the car (BOTH wheels). Mark one tire and mark the driveshaft. Turn the driveshaft until that tire makes one revolution. While you're doing this, count the revolutions of the driveshaft. This number of revolutions is your ratio. Your ratio is not likely a whole number so you'll have to estimate how much of a revolution the driveshaft makes as the tire finishes its rotation. The number of revolutions is the ratio.

To be completely sure, open up the rear. Count the teeth on the pinion and on the ring gear. The number of ring teeth divided by the number of pinion teeth is the gear ratio. For example, a 1980 Monza 4cyl automatic has 41 teeth on the ring gear and 15 teeth on the pinion gear. 41/15 = 2.73333333, for a 2.73:1 final ratio.

3.7 How do I find out if the rearend has Positraction?

Positraction rears are supposed to have a tag reminding you to use a special GM friction modifier when you change the fluid. This tag may come off.

If the tag is missing, jack up the rear of the vehicle and spin a rear wheel. If the other one spins the same way, you have Positraction (or a locker or spool or something!). If it spins the opposite way, you have an open (regular) rear. If it doesn't spin at all, you have a problem (locked up brake, broken axle, etc.).

3.8 How do I find out if my Positraction is working?

Do a burnout. If you have two patches of rubber, it probably works! :)

Or, jack up one rear wheel, leaving the other on the ground--make sure the car is in neutral and the parking brake is OFF. Next, chock the front wheels so that the car WILL NOT move. Then, using a torque wrench, attempt to turn the raised rear wheel. At some torque value ("breakaway torque"), the wheel will start to turn. If this value is above 60-70 ft*lbs then you're OK. Otherwise, try changing your fluid (see question 3.9). If that still doesn't help, it's malfunctioning.

3.9 What fluid should I use in my Positraction rearend?

For street use: 75W90 gear oil plus GM's friction modifier. The friction modifier makes the lube more slippery. This allows the clutches to let go more easily, and last longer. It also keeps the rear quieter. (Note: Redline's 75W90 doesn't require the GM modifier, they claim.)

For race use: straight 75W90 gear oil with no GM additive. The posi will grab better but make lots of noise and possibly not last as long. (Note: Redline recommends their 75W90NS in this case, since their 75W90 is "slippery" enough to act as if it has the additive).

3.10 Why and how do I add Positraction to my rearend?

Positraction is kind of like a part-time locker for your rear end. When you're going in a straight line, the two rear axle shafts are connected together by a mechanism (cone, clutches, or gears, depending on the type) in the carrier. This aids traction greatly. When you make a turn and one wheel needs to spin faster than another, it can because the mechanism gradually lets go and allows the axle shafts to spin at different rates. However, having the partial-locking action helps in turns too because without it, the inside rear wheel would spin, keeping you from accelerating as fast. If you have an open rear end, the rear wheel with the least traction will get the most power, leaving you to spin the wheel uselessly in low-traction situations. If you have a locked rear end, you'll scrub your tires around turns. This is OK for drag-strip only cars but not a good idea for the street.

To add Positraction:

  • Locate a Positraction carrier, preferrably from an H-body, or a similar locking carrier from an aftermarket company. Make sure you get the right series carrier: 2 series for 2.XX gears and 3.XX up to 3.08, and 3 series for 3.23 up to 4.10.
  • Drain your differential and pull the axle shafts.
  • Measure backlash with a dial indicator.
  • Remove the carrier and ring gear. Note preload.
  • Move the ring gear to the Positraction carrier.
  • Reinstall the carrier in the housing.
  • Use shims on either side of the carrier to set the same backlash you measured earlier. Put the same preload on the carrier.
  • Refill the housing with gear oil that is designed for positract (see question 3.9).

 

3.11 How do I use common GM 10-bolt rearend gears (S-10, F-body, etc) in my H-body's 10-bolt housing?

The main problem is that, in the differential case, the hole for the pinion bearing is smaller in the H-body differential than in other GM 10-bolt differentials. You can either get a machine shop to enlarge this hole or use a special pinion bearing and race.

So, the list is:

  • Enlarge pinion hole in differential and use S-10 bearing, race, and seal
    -OR-
    Use these non-factory parts:
    Timkin bearing #16143,
    Timkin bearing race #16283, and
    National seal #8610.
    Tony (tony63underwood) says that Timkin bearing 16143 crossreferences to BRG bearing part # BR42687 (this crossreference has been reported to be wrong--use at your own risk) and the race 16283 crosses to BR16283.
  • 7.5" gear set with pinion
  • new carrier if the new gears won't fit your current carrier (see 3.10)
  • S-10 rear end yoke
  • "Combination" U-joint (Dana #5-3022X) to mate the S-10 yoke with your stock driveshaft

 

While you're in there, you can upgrade to a new or different posi carrier by getting a 26-spline carrier of the right series for your gears (see question 3.10).

NOTE: Installing new gears requires setting the proper pinion depth and carrier position. Doing this wrong will destroy your gears. Even the most die-hard shadetree mechanics leave this to a professional. If you want to try it anyway, this is the basic procedure and tips from Robert (twelve_second_vega):
"When you pull the carrier, mark the shims on the side of each bearing. They are cast iron and must be handled with care. Put a new crush sleeve on the pinion and install it in your 7.5" housing. Set the preload (about 10 inch pounds with used bearings) and set the carrier in place. Gently tap the shims you took out into place with a PLASTIC hammer and torque the caps. Only 1 gearset I installed needed to be reset. 99% of the time, you can just throw them in and go. If the backlash is off (.005" - .008" with used gears) you will need different shims. Subtract the amount you need (in backlash reduction) from the right shim to move the ring gear deeper into the pinion. BE SURE to add this SAME AMOUNT to the opposite shim. You MUST maintain the preload on the side bearings. When properly set-up, you will have to pry the carrier out of the housing and putting shims back in should not be easy either."

Bob (botizan) adds this tip:
"When installing F-body or other 7.5" gears in your H-body car, you can keep the H-body U-joint by using the yoke from a 76-79 X-body car (Nova,Apollo,Omega,Ventura)"

3.12 Can I use a complete S-10 rear end?

Yes, but you'll need to transfer (cut then weld) the brackets for the coil spring suspension since the S-10 uses leaf springs. Also, you'll need to figure out how to mount the torque arm if you have one, or revert to the previous 4-link rear suspension.

Lee Abel of Abel Performance (Phantom402) gives more details:
"Found out a neat thing today the springs on an S-10 are exactly the same width as the rear control arm mounts for my 75 2+2 factory v8, so I'm gonna cut down the springs, clamp the leafs together, and bolt it in. Add the spring mounts and panhard bar and its done except the brake line... no problem, tack weld piece of metal to frame some where convienent and hook up s-10 hose. BTW some later 80's earlier 90's S-10's came with 8.5 10 bolts so all ya gotta do is up grade to a 2wd vesion an boom ya got a rear end that is about as strong as a 12 bolt after a lock right, moser axles, "c" clip eliminators, summit pre load cover, and mobil 1 gear oil. If ya find a f-body from 70's or early 80's you can swap the disc brakes."

3.13 Can I use a complete F-body (Camaro/Firebird) rear end?

Yes, but first you'll need one from an '82 or newer car with the torque arm suspension. Then you'll need to have it narrowed if you're not using the wide IMSA body panels. Make sure the brackets end up in the right place! Finally you'll need to modify the torque arm mounting area.

Roger (monza_madness) gives more details: "The stock F-body (3rd gen 1982-1992) rearend will fit an IMSA panel Monza using 10" wide wheels with 4" back spacing. No shortening required, just relocating the H-body spring perches and H-body control arm mounts. Widen the H-body control arm to fit the differential housing. The front differential mounting holes have to be redrilled in the control arm. The control arm upper and lower ridges have to be notched, and control arm has to be pulled to a 90 degree angle to the rearend and the ridges have to be rewelded. Careful not to use the German made firebird rearend, identified by finned aluminum brake calipers, as this is a light duty rearend. Also can be identified by the 9 bolt differential cover.

"When moving the spring perches and control arm mounts, I used the differential case as a reference point. Then I double checked the distances between the spring perches to guarantee proper positioning. I used an angle gauge mounted to the pinion bolt holes, set at 5 degrees down, then used the level to set the perches and control arms. For the pan hard bar mount, I installed the rearend with spring perches and control arms tacked in place into the car (monza). With control arms and springs and torque arm in place, I lifted the full weight of the car with the rearend. The mount, with the pan hard bar attached, was placed on the rearend centered with the marks that were measured off the old rearend. Check that the wheels are centered in the body, then tack the pan hard mount into place. Then I removed the rearend and finished welding everything into place."

3.14 How much power can a stock 7.5" rear take?

If you're hooking up well (for example, using slicks and getting low 60' times in the 1/4 mile), people seem to agree on 300 rwhp. After that, start looking at aftermarket 12 bolt or 9" or similar rears. Don't get an S-10 rear thinking it will be stronger because it probably won't be. Also, people with Camaros making just over this much power break rear ends, so don't look too hard in that direction either. If you're making much more than 300 rwhp, you deserve a custom rear anyway. :) Don Hardy 12-bolts seem to be popular.

If you're not hooking up, then it almost doesn't matter how much HP you drive through the rear end because you're just spinning the tires anyway!


3.19 What aftermarket transmission mounts are available?

For TH350 and similar: Energy Suspension part number 3-1108G, black (graphite) (actually a universal trans mount with 3 mounting holes)

Torque arm mounts: Energy suspension part numbers 3137 (outer) and 7033 (inner).


The Rear Axle

Contributed by John B (vegadad)

Reference: Building the V6/Vega by John Thawley

Over the manufacturing life Of the H-body, several Gear ratios were offered in either a 6.5" or 7.5" ring gear configuration. From 1971 through 1975 all of the rear axles were equipped with the weaker 6.5" ring gear. In 1976 and 77 some of the H-Bodied cars were equipped with either the 6.5" or 7.5" ring gear. H-bodied cars from 1978 and later all are equipped with the 7.5 ring gear configuration.

The identifying code is either located on a metal tag attached to a cover bolt or is stamped on the right front side axle tube about 3 inches outboard of the carrier, approximately 30 to 45 degrees above the horizontal.

FIELD IDENTIFICATION

FIRST 3 LETTERS ARE THE MINIMUM REQUIREMENT FOR IDENTO-PLATE

NK

B

218

D

W

RATIO CODE MANUFACT. ID JULIAN DATE D = DAY SHIFT
N = NIGHT SHIFT
LIMITED SLIP ID
W = BORG WARNER
E = EATON
O = OLDS
NOTE: 1978 MODELS THE FOURTH CHARACTER INDICATES MODEL YEAR
FIFTH THROUGH SEVENTH, JULIAN DATE, THE EIGHTH CHARACTER, SHIFT CODE.

MANUFACTURER ID
B = BUICK
G = CHEVROLET GEAR AND AXLE
O = OLDSMOBILE
C = CHEVROLET BUFFALO
P = PONTIAC
K = GM OF CANADA, ST. CATHERINES (MCKINNON)
M = PONTIAC CANADA
W = CHEVROLET WARREN
 


1971-1974

ALL 6.5" RING GEAR

DESCRIPTION

TYPE DESIGNATION

DESCRIPTION

TYPE DESIGNATION

2.92 RATIO

HA

POSITRACTION 3.36 RATIO

HH

2.53 RATIO

HB

POSITRACTION 2.92 RATIO

HJ

3.36 RATIO

HC

POSITRACTION 3.73 RATIO

(1974)

HMD

POSITRACTION 2.92 RATIO

HD

3.73 RATIO (1974)

HED

POSITRACTION 2.53 RATIO

HG

2.56 RATIO

HT

POSITRACTION 3.36 RATIO

HH

POSITRACTION 2.56 RATIO

HU

POSITRACTION 2.92 RATIO

HJ

2.93 RATIO

HP

POSITRACTION 2.93 RATIO

HW

3.42 RATIO

HF or HX

POSITRACTION 3.42

3.73 RATIO (1975)

HR

HN

POSITRACTION 3.73 RATIO

(1975)

HS

1975

ALL 6.5" RING GEAR

2.56 RATIO

DB or EB

2.92 RATIO

HA or HD

2.92 RATIO

DA or EA

2.93 RATIO

DX or EX

DC or EC

3.42 RATIO

DE or EF

DV or EV

3.73 RATIO

DF or EF

1976

6.5" RING GEAR

7.5" RING GEAR

2.53 RATIO

HB or HJ

2.56 RATIO

DY or EY

2.92 RATIO

HK or HM

2.93 RATIO

DX or EX

   

3.42 RATIO

DU or EU

   

3.73 RATIO

DT or ET

   

4.10 RATIO

DS or ES

1977

6.5" RING GEAR

7.5" RING GEAR

2.92 RATIO

HK or HM

2.29 RATIO

DZ

2EA

2EZ

   

2.56 RATIO

DY

2EB

2EY

   

2.73 RATIO

DR

ER

   

2.93 RATIO

DX

2ED

EX

2EW

   

3.08 RATIO

2EJ

2ER

   

3.42 RATIO

DU

2EF

EU

   

3.73 RATIO

2EG

ET

1978

ALL 7.5" RING GEAR

2.29 RATIO

EA

*EZ

2.56 RATIO

EB

*EY

2.73 RATIO

EC

*EX

2.93 RATIO

ED

*EW

3.08 RATIO

EJ

*ER

3.23 RATIO

EE

*EV

1979

ALL 7.5" RING GEAR

2.29 RATIO

EA

*EZ

2.56 RATIO

EB

*EY

2.73 RATIO

EC

*EX

2.93 RATIO

ED

*EW

3.08 RATIO

EJ

*ER

   

* INDICATES POSITRACTION

1980

ALL 7.5" RING GEAR

2.56 RATIO

2EB

*2EY

2.73 RATIO

2EC

*2EX

2.93 RATIO

2ED

*2EW

   


What is a good drag racing suspension setup?

Not too much here for specifics, but basic ideas:

  • Rear ladder bar suspension (do NOT use if you plan to autox, road race, or even drive hard on the street--major oversteer)
  • Box the lower (and upper if you have them) control arms to prevent wheel hop
  • Use stiff rear springs and soft front springs for better front-to-rear weight transfer
  • Use an airbag on the right rear spring to keep it stiffer (on solid rear axle cars, the right side tends to lift more than the left due to driveshaft rotation)
  • Polyurethane bushings on panhard rod (or upper control arms) and lower control arms. NOTE: Using poly bushings on both ends of the control arm will cuase binding--use regular rubber on one end.
  • Motion makes traction bars that bolt to new lower control arms.

What wheel sizes came stock with H-bodies?

 

  • Bolt pattern for all cars: 4 x 4"
  • Vega: 13 x 5 and 13 x 6

Where can I get a new parking brake cable?

Wagner (check your local parts store) part #f76641


Where should I look for my build sheet?

The build sheet is the factory's listing of what options they put on your car. It is "hidden" somewhere in your car during its construction.

For Vegas, try under the carpet behind the passenger's front seat.

For the Ohio-built (78-80) Monza/Sunbird/Starfire/Skyhawk, they are usually under the carpet behind the driver's seat. Also try the driver's side door panel and behind the passenger's side seat backing.

Other places to look are under the front seats between the wire and foam, and just about anywhere someone could hide one.


Who still sells parts for H-bodies?

NOTE: The listing a company or individual here does NOT imply any endorsement of that company or individual. Information here may not be current or correct, but probably is. All vendors are in the U.S. unless otherwise noted.

  A & M Soff Seal, Inc.
  104 May Drive
  Harrison, OH  45030
  (800) 426-0902
  --> weatherstripping for doors

  Addco Industries
  Watertower Road 
  Lake Park, FL  33403
  (305) 844-2531 or (305) 842-6065
  --> swaybars

  Aerospace Components Inc.
  2625 75th Street North
  St.Petersburg, Florida  33710
  (727) 545-4943 
  http://www.aerospacecomponents.com 
  --> 5-lug brake kits for Vega and Monza
    
  Afco Racing Products
  P.O. Box 548
  Boonvillle, IN  47601 
  http://www.afcoracing.com 
  (812) 897-0900
  --> radiator that approximately fits H-body for V8 swap, other racing stuff
 
  Alston Group
  248 Depot Street
  Antioch, IL  60002
  (847) 395-3300
  --> subframe connectors, rollcages

  AP&R (Auto Parts & Recycling)
  W4726 Hwy A
  Fredonia, WI
  (800) 680-2886
  --> used H-body parts

  Auto Custom Carpet
  Anniston, AL ???
  (800) 352-8295
  http://www.accmats.com 
  --> carpets

  Auto Decals Unlimited Inc.
  11259 E. Via Linda, Suite 100-201
  Scottsdale, AZ 85259
  (602) 860-9800  
  --> replacement decals
 
  Auto Specialties Performance
  13313 Redfish, #104
  Stafford, TX 77477
  (281) 261-5811
  (877) 928-8678
  www.aspracing.com 
  --> street/race/blower pulleys; custom pulleys

  Automotive Information Clearinghouse
  Box 1746
  La Mesa, CA  91944
  (619) 447-7200 
  --> reports about how many of a certain model of car still exist, etc.
  
  Autopower
  --> Roll bars and cages for H-bodies; must buy through dealer


  Carrera 
  (ARRE Industries, Inc.)
  5412 New Peachtree Rd.
  Atlanta, GA  30341
  (770) 451-8811
  http://www.carrerashocks.com/ 
  --> coilover shocks for H-bodies    

  Carter Chevrolet Auto Restoration Service
  9905 Tunnel Way
  Louisville, KY  40291
  John Carter, Owner
  (502) 231-1955
  (502) 239-2545 fax
  --> Vega door seals

  Century Performance Center
  (775) 746-4887 (try website first)
  http://www.centuryperformance.com 
  --> much stuff, including Sanderson headers

  Chris Alston's Chassisworks
  8661 Younger Creek Drive
  Sacramento, CA  95828
  (800) 722-2269
  http://www.cachassisworks.com 
  --> subframe connectors, other chassis parts?
7111  
SUBRAME CONNECTORS, VEGA, 71-81 
Price $ 159.00           
Made out of 2x3x.083" and 2x2x.083" wall mild steel tubing. Designed to be used with the stock floor and coil spring rear suspension. The weld-in design substantially reduces chassis flex and does not change the location of the rear suspension parts. Some modification to the rear-seat-foot-well floor pan may be necessary. Kit includes a pair of connectors and instructions


  Classic Camaro
  17832 Gothard Street
  Huntington Beach, CA  92647
  (800) 854-1280
  http://classicindustries.com 
  --> Camaro armrests ('78-'81 fit the H-bodies)

  Corbeau
  http://www.corbeau.com    
  --> seats; direct fit for H-bodies???

  Crower Cams & Equipment Co. Inc.
  3333 Main Street
  Chula Vista, CA  91911-5899 
  (619) 422-1191
  http://www.crower.com 
  --> rods for Vega 2.0 and 2.3l engines (part #SP93208B)

  CTC's Auto Ranch
  3077 Memory Lane
  Sanger, TX  76266-7329
  (800) 482-6157
  http://www.ctcautoranch.com 
  --> H-bodies for sale

  Custom Interiors  
  (800) 423-6053
  --> carpets
  

  D&D ???
  (810) 798-2491
  --> Buick 215-into-Vega parts
    
  Dave's Vega Village
  #4-3011 Murray St.
  Port Moody, BC 
  Canada  V3H 1X3
  (604) 469-9979
  --> many parts

  Diamond Racing Wheels
  http://www.diamondracingwheels.com 
  --> Custom wheels; will build in 4x4" H-body pattern

  DLI ???
  (818) 314-4143
  --> B&M supercharger for Buick V6
  
  DOBI
  320 Thor Place
  Brea, CA 92821 
  (714) 529-1977 
  --> suspension kits, body parts, etc.; stopped making H-body stuff, but
      still has some inventory to sell off

  Don Hardy Race Cars
  202 W Missouri St.
  Floydada, TX  79235
  (806) 983-3774 / (806) 983-3775
  --> V8 swap kits

  Don Johansen 
  2040 Tremont Ave.
  Davenport, IA  52803
  (319) 323-8139 
  --> obsolete GM Parts

  Donovan Engineering
  CA
  (310) 320-3372
  --> larger 2300 valves


  Eastwood Company
  580 Lancaster Ave.
  Box 296
  Malvern, PA  19355-0296
  (800) 345-1178
  http://www.eastwoodco.com 
  --> interior & exterior restoration supplies & equipment

  Energy Suspension
  1131 Via Callejon 
  San Clemente, CA  92673 
  (949) 361-3935
  http://www.energysuspension.com 
  --> suspension bushings

1972 CHEVROLET VEGA

Tie Rod End Boot
  1. Part#
  2. Sub Model
  3. Description
9.13101G   Tie Rod Dust Boot; Black; Round Style; Largest Dia. Taper 0.59 in./15mm; Socket Top Dia. 1 3/8 in./35mm; 2 Pack; 2.3 Liter
9.13101R   Tie Rod Dust Boot; Red; Round Style; Largest Dia. Taper 0.59 in./15mm; Socket Top Dia. 1 3/8 in./35mm; 2 Pack; 2.3 Liter
9.13102G   Tie Rod Dust Boot; Black; Octagon Style; Largest Dia. Taper 0.59 in./15mm; Socket Top Dia. 1 3/8 in./35mm; 2 Pack; 2.3 Liter
9.13102R   Tie Rod Dust Boot; Red; Octagon Style; Largest Dia. Taper 0.59 in./15mm; Socket Top Dia. 1 3/8 in./35mm; 2 Pack; 2.3 Liter
Sway Bar Link
  1. Part#
  2. Sub Model
  3. Description
9.8117G   Sway Bar End Link Kit; Black; L-2 5/8 in.; 2.3 Liter
9.8117R   Sway Bar End Link Kit; Red; L-2 5/8 in.; 2.3 Liter
Suspension Control Arm Bumper
  1. Part#
  2. Sub Model
  3. Description
3.9102G   Front Bump Stop Set; Black; Pull Thru Style; H-1.25 in.; L-1.5 in.; W-1 9/16 in.; Incl. 2 Per Set; 2.3 Liter
3.9102R   Front Bump Stop Set; Red; Pull Thru Style; H-1.25 in.; L-1.5 in.; W-1 9/16 in.; Incl. 2 Per Set; 2.3 Liter
Control Arm Bushing
  1. Part#
  2. Sub Model
  3. Description
3.3126G   Control Arm Bushing Set; Black; Front Lower and Upper; 2.3 Liter
3.3126R   Control Arm Bushing Set; Red; Front Lower and Upper; 2.3 Liter
3.3140G   Control Arm Bushing Set; Black; Incl. Thrust Washer Set; Upper Must Reuse Existing Outer Shells; Rear Lower and Upper; 2.3 Liter
3.3140R   Control Arm Bushing Set; Red; Incl. Thrust Washer Set; Upper Must Reuse Existing Outer Shells; Rear Lower and Upper; 2.3 Liter


  ESPO Springs 'n Things Inc.
  701 Pine Tree Rd.
  Danville, PA  17821
  (800) 903-9019
  http://www.espo.com 
  --> springs, front end kits, etc. 


  Fast Wheels
  OK
  --> custom made steel wheels, about $40 each, 15x7, 4x4 bolt pattern

  Flaming River Industries, Inc.
  7851 Englewood Drive
  Clevelan, OH  44130-3453
  1-800-648-8022 
  http://www.flaming-river.com 
  --> new Vega-style steering boxes, better engineered


  Gear Zone
  (561) 447-9594
  http://www.gearzone.net 
  --> counter gear stabilizer for T5 transmission
    
  GM Muscle Car Parts, Inc
  10345 75th Avenue
  Palos Hills, IL  60465
  (708) 599-2277
  --> worldwide GM parts locater--only new-old-stock items

  Griffin Radiator
  100 Hurricane Creek Road 
  Piedmont, SC  29673
  (864) 845-5000 
  (800) 722-3723
  http://griffinrad.com 
  --> aluminum radiators, for Monza and generic
  

  Headers By Ed
  Dept. Up
  Box 7494
  Minneapolis, MN  55407
  (612) 729-2802
  http://www.headersbyed.com 
  --> headers for 2300

  Helm Inc.
  (800) 782-4356
  http://www.helminc.com 
  --> Factory shop manuals (about $60), owners manuals, recalls, etc.
  
  Herbert Automotive
  11121 Magnolia Blvd.
  N Hollywood, CA  91601
  --> 4.3 V6 swap kit for Vega, V8 kit; still around???
  
  Hooker
  (909) 983-5871
  --> headers

  I/O Port Racing
  14 Juniper Drive
  Lafayette, CA  94549-3321
  (800) 949-5712
  (925) 254-RACE
  http://www.ioportracing.com 
  --> Autopower roll bars and cages for H-bodies

  JC Whitney
  LaSalle, IL  61301
  (312) 431-6102
  http://www.jcwhitney.com 
  --> some "custom-fit" replacement items (carpet, seat covers, etc.)
      plus other miscellaneous stuff

  Jeg's 
  OH
  (800) 345-4545
  http://www.jegs.com 
  --> lots of stuff for racing, few things for H-bodies in particular

  Jim Osborn Reproductions, Inc.
  101 Ridgecrest Drive
  Lawrenceville, GA 30045
  (770) 962-7556 
  http://www.osborn-reproduction.com 
  --> reproduction decals and manuals for many cars including H-bodies
  

  Just Dashes
  5941 Lemona Ave.
  Van Nuys, CA  91411
  (800) 247-3274
  (818) 780-9005 
  http://www.justdashes.com 
   --> restore factory dashes


  Kenne Bell
  CA
  (909) 941-6646
  --> Buick V6 performance parts
  
  Kennedy Engineered Products
  38830 17th St. East
  Palmdale, CA  93550
  (661) 272-1147 
  http://www.kennedyeng.com 
  --> Buick 215 V8 to TH350/400/Powerglide adaptor, other adaptors

  Kepich
  17370 Alico Center Rd
  Ft. Myers, FL  33912 
  (800) 365-5764
  --> exhaust: OEM dual-pipe for Spyder with 305 V8     

  
  March Performance, Inc.
  5820 Hix Rd.
  Westland, MI  48185
  (734) 729-9070
  http://www.marchperf.com 
  --> pulley and bracket sets for many engines

  MAS Racing Products
  2288 University Ave. 917
  St. Paul, MN  55114
  (651) 544-6811
  (651) 644-1635 (fax)
  --> fiberglass body parts for H-bodies including many spoilers
  
  Metro Moulded Rubber Parts
  11610 Jay Street
  Minneapolis, MN  55448
  (612) 757-0310
  (800) 878-2237
  (763) 757-7228 fax
  http://www.metrommp.com 
  --> rubber restoration parts and weatherstripping
  Distributors: www.weatherstripspecial.com  in CA,
 www.thepartsplaceinc.com  in Chicago,
  www.peninsularestoration.com  in Victoria, BC


  Miner's Mountain-O-Monzas (Jeff)
  8071 LWE
  Fayetteville, PA 17222 
  (717) 352-7704
  sjmmachine@desupernet.net 
  --> used and new parts, performance parts 

  Monzas Unlimited 
  P.O. Box 272
  Ooltewah, TN 37363
  (423) 238-4742  
  --> parts and repairs

  Moser Engineering
  (219) 726-6689
  --> redrill stock rotors for 5 lugs; misc. axle and brake parts

  Motion Performance
  PO Box 875
  598 Sunrise Hwy
  Baldwin, NY  11510-0597
  (516) 882-0068
  --> complete V8 kit for H-bodies, fiberglass body parts

  Motormite Mfg. Div. of R&B Inc.
  P.O. Box 1800
  Colmar, PA  18915-1800
  --> replacement parts (armrests); may make new parts--
      write to ATTN: New Product Manager

  MRGUSA ???
  http://www.mrgusa.com/ 
  --> interior and exterior trim clips for H-bodies
  

  Performance Automotive Warehouse
  CA
  (818) 678-3000
  --> misc performance parts

  PJ's Auto Literature
  PO Box 233 
  Reinbeck, IA 50669
  (319) 345-6760
  --> various stuff, including dealer announcements, press kits, etc.

  Performance Suspension Technology
  PO Box 396
  Montville, NJ 07045
  (800) 247-2288
  http://www.p-s-t.com 
  --> suspension pieces


  Reider Racing Enterprises
  12351 Universal Dr.
  Taylor, MI  48180
  (313) 946-1330 
  (800) 522-2707
  http://www.reider-racing.com 
  --> Timkin bearing and bearing race to convert to S-10 rear gears

  Restoration Specialists, Attn: Dave
  148 Minnow Creek Lane
  Windber, PA 15963
  (814) 467-9842
  --> will make custom window seals for H-bodies
 
  S&W Race Cars 
  11 Mennonite Church Road
  Spring City, PA  19475
  (800) 523-3353
  http://www.swracecars.com 
  --> chassis parts

  Sanderson
  517 Railroad Ave
  San Francisco, CA  94080
  (415) 583-6617
  (800) 669-2430
  --> V8 headers

  Sherman & Associates
  61166 Van Dyke Rd.
  Washington, MI 
  (810) 677-6800
  http://www.shermanparts.com 
  --> Vega sheet metal
  
  Showcars Bodyparts Unlimited
  Ontario, Canada
  (905) 857-6345
  http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com 
  --> fiberglass and original body panels for many makes and models

  SMS Auto Fabrics
  Portland, OR
  (503) 234-1175
  --> OEM-type seat fabrics 

  The Speed Center 
  105 N.Cambell Dept.CC
  Rapid City, SD  57701
  (605) 348-3850 
  --> steel cowl hood scoops (not the whole hood)

  Speedway Motors
  (402) 474-4411
  --> complete V8 install kit, headers

  Stahl
  http://www.stahlheaders.com 
  --> headers for big block conversion; 2" and 2 1/8" primaries

  Stencils & Stripes Unlimited
  1108 S. Crescent
  Park Ridge, IL  60668
  (847) 692-6893 fax: ( 847 ) 692-6895
  http://www.stencilsandstripes.com 
  --> replacement decals for 67-up cars
  
1974 -75 Vega GT Stripe Kit

Kit is recreated from original GM stripes, which are around wheel opening and have GT cutout in fender stripe.

 

9734701 Black body side stripe kit $265.00
9734702 White body side stripe kit $265.00
 

 


  Summit Racing Equipment
  P.O. Box 909 
  Akron, OH  44309 
  (800) 230-3030
  --> lots of stuff for racing, few things for H-bodies in particular

  Supercar Specialty
  1325 North Red Gum #3
  Anaheim, CA  92806
  (714) 666-2206
  http://www.supercar.com 
  --> door seals for Monza


  TD Performance
  16410 Manning Way
  Cerritos, CA  90703 
  (562) 921-0404
  --> V8 swap kit for Vega (part #4686)

  Trans-Dapt 
  9599 Jefferson Blvd. 
  Culver City, CA  90232
  (310) 839-7581 ???
  (310) 921-0404 ???
  --> Chevy SBC + transmission mounts for Vega, part #4686

  
  United Speedometer Server
  2431 University Ave
  Riverside, CA  92507-4265
  (800) 877-4798
  --> Can fix digital clocks  

  Unlimited Performance Products
  560 W Rincon St.
  Corona, CA 91720
  (909) 735-7770
  http://www.up22.com 
  --> fiberglass body panels for many makes and models 

  U.S. Body Source
  9009 SE CR325
  Hampton, FL 32044
  (352) 468-2203
  http://usbodysource.com 
  --> fiberglass body panels for many makes and models


  VFN Fiberglass
  Addison, Illinois
  (630) 543-0232
  (888) 836-9467
  http://www.vfn-wins.com 
  --> fiberglass dash, other fiberglass pieces


  Weatherstrip Special
  85 N 27th ST
  San Jose, CA  95116
  (888) 999-7876
  (408) 295-7611
  http://www.weatherstripspecial.com 
  --> Vega hatchback weather seal (no Monza parts listed)

  World Products
  35330 Stanley
  Sterling Heights, MI  48312
  (800) 939-9628
  http://www.worldcastings.com 
  --> heads, engine parts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


EDDYVILLE IOWA USA

EDDYVILLE RACEWAY

Contact Info: Gerald Kramer - Manager

Track Address: Eddyville Raceway Park 3260 Merino Avenue Oskaloosa, Iowa. 52577

Mailing Address: Eddyville Raceway Park 2462 Highway 163 Pella, Iowa 50219

Track Phone - 641.969.5596 Gerald Phone - 641.780.3534
manager@eddyvilleraceway.com


NHRA


EVERYONE IS WATCHING GAS PRICES CLICK HERE FOR GAS BUDDY A COOL PLACE TO SEE THE LOWEST PRICES FOR YOUR TRIP.


http://www.hlsproparts.com/

STIHL, HONDA, B&S, WACKER AND MORE PARTS


STATE STEEL DES MOINES IOWA

GREAT SOURCE FOR STEEL!!

DES MOINES
4819 NE 17th Court
Des Moines,  IA 50313 - 2616

(515) 264-0000
(800) 783-3590


http://www.discountsteel.com

STEEL ALUMINUM BRASS STAINLESS PLATE, CHANNEL, EXPANDED, AND ALL THE HARDWARE AT GREAT PRICES AND THEY RUN THEIR OWN DELIVERY TRUCKS TOO!!


HERE IS A GOOD PLACE FOR POWER WASHER PARTS

 AND LOT'S MORE!! SUPER PRICES TOO!!

http://www.pwmall.com


HERE IS A GOOD PLACE FOR TOOLS, LADDERS, LADDER RACKS FOR TRUCKS

http://www.industrialladder.com/

 CHICAGO AREA BASED FAST SHIPPING TOO!!


RAPID ROOF REMOVER COOL TOOL AND A MUST HAVE FOR ANY ROOFER!!

J.K.N. Enterprises
241 W. Oak Street  - Washington C.H., OH   43160

Mobile:  740-505-9295
Phone:  740-335-3443
Email:  
sales@rapidroofremover.com



CLICK HERE FOR KENT-MOORE TOOLS AND MORE FOR LESS


http://www.toolsource.com

OEM TOYOTA TOOLS AND MORE!!

OTC BRANDS TOO!!


Miller

MILLER WELDING ON LINE


http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com

GENERATORS

 AND ALL THE PARTS AND SWITCHES AND CORDS

TO MAKE THE SYSTEM WORK


GREAT SYSTEM FOR LADDER RACK FOR YOUR CONSTRUCTION TRUCK THESE ARE NO DRILL KITS! NOT TOO HARD TO PUT ON THE TRUCK! ONE MAN INSTALLATION THAT HAS ADJUSTABLE RAILS FROM FRONT TO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK SO YOU CAN USE A 5TH WHEEL OR GOOSE NECK TRAILER!


THE ONE STOP TOOLS PARTS PLACE!!


http://www.ngkwholesale.com/ SPARK PLUGS AND MORE FOR A GREAT PRICE


http://www.hlsproparts.com/  SMALL ENGINE PARTS AND HONDA!


http://www.equipmentpartssource.com/


http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com


http://www.dishpointer.com/

ARE YOU HAVING ISSUES WITH SATELLITE DISH INSTALLATION AND THINKING YOU HAVE A TREE OR BUILDING IN THE WAY??

CLICK HERE FOR THE BEST WAY TO SEE IF YOU HAVE STUFF IN THE ROAD OF YOUR DISH AND THE SATELLITES YOU NEED FOR HD!! THIS SITE IS THE HOTTEST SITE I HAVE SEEN IN A WHILE!! 


ARE YOU READY FOR THE NEXT EVENT??? CLICK HERE FOR A LIST AND PLANNING INFO!!


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